In France the people are more identified by where they live rather than what they are. Spanish, Italian, African seems less important than if you’re from Pezenas and you speak French. Why would you want to be anywhere but here, a resident might say? Even though just a few kilometers away those people feel the same pride about their town. The Mauritius waitress that served us is recognized more as resident of Pezenas than she is a Mauritian. She speaks French, English and Creole.
This appoach is also important in the wine that the French drink. The most noticeable, largest font on a wine label is usually the village or vineyard. Here you drink a location, not a particular varietal and most are familiar with the grape variety from the region, it’s just not the most important component.
This is a town that Rick Steves hasn’t written a word about as far as I know. I wonder if the publicity a town gets is good or bad. It definitely improves the economy but then there are the overpowering hordes in these little towns. The future could be even more crowded with Norwegian Air’s one way, no changes fare ($179.00) that will get you to Europe cheaper than flying LA to San Francisco.

Some of the places that we have been are cosmopolitan, the population used to having many languages spoken. Their language skills are good, and signage is in French and the Kings English to attract us to their establishments. Here in Pezenas that is not the case. We ate Italian pizza, a recipe the owner learned from his Sicilian grandfather in this very french town. I’m coining the type of communication we have in these small towns as ”language charades”, the lack of skills for all of the players result in lots of pointing, hand gestures, and body movements just to order tap water, house wine and an artichoke three cheese pizza. It must feel satisfying for all of us because by the time we left there is hand shaking with the proprietor/chief, many mercies, and lots of smiles and waving. Connecting with people even without a common language is a simple thing that makes a great trip. We both have found a different pace here, it’s okay to pretend like we live here and not have to be on the go all the time.
Pezenas is known for being one of the most beautiful towns not to miss, with 300 days of sunshine. Which means it rains for at least thirty, including the last three pretty much nonstop. Babette, the energetic owner of our Bed & Breakfast has said more than once ”the rain will be finished today.” She and Phillipe her husband had to canoe to a friends flooded property and move all the furniture to the second floor so it stays dry. I’m hoping for at least a few hours of sun before we head to Aix en Provence tomorrow.

While staying in Pezenas we visited La Grotte Clamouse, underground caverns formed by mineral rich water percolating through rock over a few million years. Translated, this means even in the cavern it’s drizzling. When it rains hard, the ground absorbs the precipitation like a sponge for two days and after that it explodes out of the fissures in the area. The live guide was French, the audio guide was English. I think the only thing we missed were the jokes he told in French to the delight of the locals. I will let the images tell the story.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fact Check: Pezenas, population less than 10,000, is in the Languedoc-Roussillon area, the single biggest wine producing region of the world

Pezenas, April 14th 2018