Final Reflections on Japan

Japan invited me to slow down and live a bit more in the moment even though the whole country seems to be on time and in a hurry at the same time. From the lack of constant input comes creativity.

 

 

There is always a more artful way to do something.The Japanese people can take simple flowers from a garden, a well-chosen vase and create a visual morsel. 

Not all will notice, but notice the ones that do.

 

 

 

There is a difference between looking and seeing. Looking can be superficial. Seeing is multidimensional and boosts colors, increases my sense of smell, and my connection to the surroundings.

The words of Cedric Wright:
In all heaven and earth, there is one thing to do: take your time.

 

 

 

I have seen Japan through the painter’s eye, thanks to the typhoon rains. 

I understand the negative space better. It is what is left unsaid, not included, left out, and superfluous. Leaving what is left more important and treasured.

The negative space encourages the viewer to be part of the creative process and to complete the scene in their own vision. The “artist eye” takes more than two eyes. It takes a soul with vision.

 

Thanks to Mario & Liz for all the hard work that they did to make the trip such a memorable experience. And to all of our travel companions, whom I hope will be friends for life.

With Aloha,

Brian & Vicki

Japan November 8, 2017

Finding the Tokaido Road

Before coming to Japan I had this romantic view of the Tokaido Road between Tokyo and Kyoto. The old pathway was the inspiration of the famous woodblock prints by Hokusai and other artists. It was traveled by Samurai, bandits, conspirators, and commoners.

My vision was: carefully restored buildings staffed by ancient shopkeepers with tastefully handcrafted goods and 50-year-old water stained price tags. I’m walking a path with a few shoppers dressed in traditional costumes, geta echoing off stone pavers and no overhead wires. Incense, mixed with woodsmoke and the unfamiliar but pleasant smell of cooking is the stage set.

Wake up! you missed this scene by at least 200 years. The beginning of the Tokaido Road can be found on Sanjo Dori, translated: 3rd street. Fires, no building codes, and commercial pressure have mostly buried the historic area.

Right around the corner is Teramachi, loosely translated means you can shop, drop, eat, and repeat all in a covered mall about one hundred times the size of your nearest Costco.

The self-guided architectural tour brochure says about the neighborhood:
“We believe a resilient, attractive community is nurtured by a good balance between the wisdom for preserving what is good, and the enlightenment to appreciate regeneration.”

Maybe I will be able to find the history sometime in the future. I just need to keep looking.

Kyoto, Japan November 7th 2017

Respect

Rice fields outside of Oomoto, Japan

 Respect is something that feels more prevalent here than in the US. Is it taught by nature, the previous generations, or in school? I think the answer is yes.

Ancestral Respect: One of the reasons that the rice fields are still tilled is that it would be dishonorable to the previous generations to let the fields lie fallow even though it is not the most efficient use of the land. Every once in a while you see a small photovoltaic installation in the middle of farmland. Once the PV installation is in, the revenue far exceeds the more labor-intensive production of rice or vegetables. But that would disrespect the past.

A tree crutch

The rocks, trees, and waters of the mountains are believed to be sacred and harbor divine spirits. The people have a deep respect for the natural environment and commit huge resources to groom, preserve, and maintain them. And they throw away their own trash. As the trees age, they offer support to them, just as they do for their aging population.

Moral code: I’m not sure what is taught in school but if you believe the author Alex Kerr he says part of it is conformity. Maybe that’s one of the reasons that the Japanese are not gunning themselves down in the streets.
Each morning the teachers bow and greet
every student with “ohaiyogozaimasu” and
the uniformed kids are taught to bow back. When you bow, you do it side to side so you can make sure that you are dipping as deeply as the other person and not showing any sign of disrespect. When it comes to the work life, the population overworks themselves not for the sake of the company but to assure that their coworkers are not having to do more than their share.

Nature Worship: We have gardens and parks in the US but they are not like Japan’s. Here on weekends and holidays thousands come to the gardens to walk, take selfies, and eat snacks but there is not a scrap of paper on the ground or an un-invited weed.

When it sees garbage, the mountain weeps and the streams sigh.

Wabi-Sabi: This is a difficult concept to explain but I think it is partly the celebration of the aged, rustic, and imperfect things, those that carry the spirit of the maker. They have a patina that can’t be duplicated by production. It is the essence that flows through an inanimate object that has no value but is the most valuable aspect of that thing. A respect for the history, the people responsible, and a celebration of that impermanence.

In most cases, the locals go out of their way to be kind and respectful towards us as visitors, and when they don’t, it’s a bit of a surprise.  As a traveler in Japan Arigato will get you a long way. I do love America but there are a few things that are  Made in Japan that we could learn.

This chapter title was suggested by Beth, one of our traveling companions. Thank you, Beth, for the inspiration.

Oomoto Japan November 6th, 2017

 

Another typhoon forming

The third typhoon in as many weeks is on its way to Tokyo. It is predicted to make landfall on Sunday, exactly a week after Saola, and two weeks after Lan. As with all typhoons, this one is very unpredictable. The Japanese, as usual, have a wait and see attitude toward each storm. But I think the damage from this disturbance could reach beyond the city and could affect the whole Asia Pacific region. I have named the storm Typhoon Trump.

The recent Abe election was a mandate for change in Japan, even though the players are all the same. The geopolitical structure in the Asia Pacific region has the potential for a tectonic shift. With the risk of over-generalization, Trump says to the Japanese: “you need to protect yourselves”. Abe will probably ask for dial back on the defensive constitutional stance which would allow Japan to rearm against the political threat posed by Crazy Korea. Then the Chinese and South Koreans who are all reluctant neighbors need to re-evaluate their “defense framework”, upsetting the region’s balance of the last 50 years.

Trump’s approval rating here in Japan is even lower than in the US, and he hasn’t been here yet. The Japanese are always on their phones but they don’t often say what they mean. The written language is iconographic and meant to express ideas. A series of characters can be interpreted by five people in five different ways.

The writer Andrew Juniper explains it this way:
“FURYU MONJI, literally, not standing on words or letters denotes the zen concept that no deep understanding can be transferred by the spoken word.
Those who do not know, speak, those who know speak not”.

I expect that Trump will be incapable of “speaking not”. The more he says, the farther the harsh wind spreads. I am hoping that Typhoon Trump does not turn into category 5 storm. Otherwise, the cleanup may last months or years.

Sharing the farm table

We had a farm visit scheduled just after the second typhoon, Saola. The plan was to pick vegetables and deliver them to a farm-based Charter School where we would all cook our lunch with the kids in the school. The fields were rice paddle deep in mud so when we arrived, the teachers were preparing the food for all of us. The children had been looking forward to the day with the gaijin (foreigners) for weeks. They were preparing some of the food on a brazier in the middle of the entryway.Charcoal fires and smoke-filled rooms inside the home are a bit strange and I think we were taken aback. The teachers and the kids didn’t seem to mind. The floor looked like dirt but had been replaced by concrete sometime in the last century. This is a real farm to table experience.

One of the children was struggling to shave Bonita flakes and I offered to help, giving them all a laugh. They were impressed with my dried fish shaving skill. I told them I had been a Japanese fisherman in a past life but they probably didn’t believe me or understand.

We all ate together on the tatami-covered floor, trying to understand each other but united by the fresh vegetarian food. When the meal was over, I told our translator that my tradition after a great meal was to help with the dishes. He said they would probably say no. When he asked and after the laughter stopped they invited me in. Now they had to show me the routine. No dishwasher, no soap, just hot water, and a simple washcloth. I felt a warm welcome in the kitchen. I guess the language of pitching in is the same in all cultures.

When Julie complemented the soy sauce that was being served, the principal took us out in the back to show us how they make their own. They use five-gallon plastic buckets filled with soybeans, spices, and herbs. They start the fermentation process in May and bottle in December. The principal says that her mother and at least five generations before her have used the same recipe. And, it is a dying tradition.

The lunch crowd complete with kimono

The next event took place at the nearby tea house. The children served us a traditional tea ceremony in kimono that their moms made for them, especially for this day. These are Michiko’s (one of our guides) tea ceremony students. Joining us was a local reporter from Kameoka, documenting the big event in Oomoto Charter School program. Today was another unexpected experience that the description “farm lunch” could never have prepared us for.

Kamioka, Japan November 1, 2017

Your brain on art

The island of Naoshima is home to some James Tyrell installations. One of them resides in a building designed by the architect Tadao Ando and dedicated to just one piece. Seventeen people at a time are lead into a pitch black room.

The only way to enter is to drag your hand on a wall. Right turn, shuffle a few feet, left turn, slide a few more feet. Once you stop, there is a faint image of a rectangular black/gray/blue shape that appears like an entrance to infinity. The host left us all alone in the installation with the instruction to remain totally quite. Did he mean no crying or screaming? Part of your brain says “Let me outta here now” but it’s so dark there is no way or where to run. You are frozen in the black space. Slowly your eyes adjust and the infinity door is filled with just a little light that has a heartbeat like pulsation. The host comes back and invites you into the void.
We all do a night of the living dead walk forward, tentatively, at first until you feel that you will not fall into the void. You can see haunting shadows of others as they float slowly into the void space with no reference points. Then you realize that you and the other 16 people are the art, darkness is the palette, and the building is the frame. It’s definitely a full body/mind experience. And no one else saw the pulsation. Welcome to Living Art.

 

While eliminating things that are unnecessary, making it smaller and smaller, I think of how to make people sense a larger world.
Lee Ufan

 

The Lee Ufan Museum is another Tadao Ando building, a maximum immersion in minimalism. The huge building is mostly underground, creating a small footprint that’s filled with sparse art and architecture. It’s a quiet conversation between artist and architect for the most noticeable understatement.

Mel, a friend, who was partly responsible for us being on this trip, was in the Lee Ufan Museum when he had a similar art/brain experience. The instructions were “you are entering a meditation room”. It had three large, but subtle color shapes, one on each wall of this space large enough to play a game of volleyball in. Daylight was the only illumination. As time passed he noticed that the color of the shapes darkened without explanation. He couldn’t believe that all of us didn’t see the same thing. I asked if it could be the second typhoon cloud cover but the room stayed light, just the paintings changed. Welcome to Living Art.

Naoshima Japan October 31st, 2017

Set in stone

The Noguchi Sculpture Garden was off the beaten path in Mure Japan. When our group arrived it was us, and the workers who guard the giant art pieces. After the no pictures, no touching, no food or drink warnings we were escorted to the sculpture gardens by two guides.These stones were moved, carved, cut, sawed, and chiseled into the most valuable rock in this country.

The story is that the Artist would walk through the garden daily reworking and editing. Noguchi’s notes are still on some pieces. Are they finished or not? It’s hard to tell. Rhythmic but random sound of steel tools hitting stone balance the silence of the sight. Down the path, the whine of diamond blades cutting stone, turning the mountain into art created a peaceful and powerful place.

Pound, pound, dust off, Repeat

While Vicki distracted the guards with difficult questions in English my camera snatched a couple of images. I felt so guilty about breaking the rules I bought the 400 yen postcards as my redemption.

Noguchi’s Stone Mason has outlived the artist but you get the idea that they are still receiving directions from their long-dead muse. Every once in a while the smell of incense wafted through the air with no visible source. I felt a faint vibration of the worked stone that surrounded us as we walked around.

There is something special about the stone sculptures. They are ancient unearthed rock manipulated to reveal the magic of the depths from whence they came. Simple, grand, and important.

Noguchi’s Ashes are set in this stone at the highest point of the outdoor museum.

When we were all standing around the rock that inters
some of Noguchi’s ashes, a crow flew overhead with a greeting from the namesake.  My Japanese is not that good but I think the crow said either welcome to this place, or no photographs please.

 

 

Mure Japan October 29th, 2017

Oh Noh

The Noh stage in Oomoto. The pine tree symbolizes the connection to Heaven

Unlike Kabuki, Noh drama is dependent on the audience’s imagination to complete the story. It is subtle and Haiku-like. To do this though, you need to understand the prose of Noh and its nuance. Even with no spoken word, the language is elusive, mysterious, and haunting.

We all had a brief Noh training with Manjiro Tatsumi, the 5th generation head of the Hosho school of Noh and considered by the Japanese government an Intangible Cultural Treasure. He taught us ways to move our bodies in slow motion with quickly changing tempos and bursts of unexpected movements. Seven steps forward…forearm slowly meeting a bowed head depicting sadness…fast turn to the right, heavy step at the end…head jerk to the ceiling and then to the floor for anger. After the training, Sensei brought out five treasured masks.

He explained that the masks are in such good shape, not because they are stored well, but because they are well used.They have taken on a life of their own.He offered to let the ones that stepped forward a chance to try one on. It’s close to Halloween, so why pass up an opportunity to wear a 250-year-old anything?

Putting on the mask was an entrance to a spirit world, unfamiliar and disorienting, it felt like the plane of the stage was tilted and I was falling on my feet. The eye holes are tiny, adding to the feeling that you have left the room. Then Sensei told us we were now going to perform what we learned for the rest of the group. OH NO, a Noh master’s trick. There is Noh way you could do this. These skills take decades to be decent at even if you had a predispositioned Noh gene in the family.

After our embarrassing performance the master told us that he tries to block the energy of the centuries-old mask otherwise he goes into a trance with the power of its history.
Maybe he should have mentioned that in the training.

Oomoto Japan October 25th, 2017

Typhoon Tourists

The Japanese have a no big deal attitude when it comes to typhoons. We had an Osaka tour scheduled with Takuya, a local guide, and were afraid that he would blow off the tour. No way. We were going in the wind and the rain and I’m glad we did. After our hurricanes, the potential devastation was on my mind.
We spent time at a Shinto shrine cleansing all of the curses that we have been carrying around with us. We attended two Shinto weddings in the rain, walked around Osaka Castle in the rain and increasing wind. We ate traditional Osaka pizza which looks like a giant hash brown made with lots of cabbage.

But the best part of the day was the Happy Hour or two spent in a bar, in the caverns of the Umeda train station, with beers and multiple sakes with Takuya. The shop was a tiny place that would be intimidating for most visitors. It was a place we could have only gone to with Takuya. There were no chairs, only standing room for 8-10 people. Drinks and bar food are offered to the weary commuter. The curtain covering the door was the portal from tourist to traveler. When the bar patrons are lubricated with alcohol they morph into friendly loud extroverts and the foreigners, only us, in the bar are curiosities rather than inconveniences. Maybe they want to go home that night with a “I was drinking with Hakujins during a typhoon” story. We probably should have said goodbye sooner with the storm looming and one more long train ride to our hotel in Kyoto. But the longer we stayed the less we cared. As we were leaving finally there were multiple bows and lots of arigato gozaimasus.

This morning I woke to abandoned and broken umbrellas on the street and a message from Takuya, grammatical errors left in for authenticity.
“It was my pleasure to guide you in Typhoon Osaka yesterday. And thanks a lot of sake after the tour at Tachinomi in Umeda.
The typhoon this time was really large which I have never experienced. The wind was blowing all night long, I could not believe it. In fact, my girlfriend got stuck at the station over 2 hours between Kobe and Osaka, and she spent over 4 hours to get back home yesterday. We were very lucky as my train started to get delayed after I reached to my home last night.”

And this was typhoon Lan’s glancing blow.

Osaka Japan October 23rd, 2017

Grateful

“In houses where gardeners come and go, there is no need for a doctor. The garden is essential to our life and not something we can do without”
From Walking the Kiso Road, William Scott Wilson

I live in a special place, but I know it is not a normal place.
The things that we gripe about are pretty minor: traffic, homelessness, fires, the weather-really?
Japan seems different, closer to the edge of the planet. Earthquakes, earthquakes followed by a tsunami, a nuclear plant disaster, wars and a very bad neighbor are a start. Add to that the prediction that Mt. Fuji will definitely erupt in the next 10 years, daily measurement of radiation levels in Tokyo, warnings about mercury levels in fish: “Don’t eat Maguro sashimi more than once a month”. And Lan, the typhoon expected this coming Sunday, the day of their national Election.Some of our travel companions have canceled or postponed their flights. We head to Osaka today on the Shinkansen. Then on to Kyoto on Sunday if we stay on track. It seems that all of these calamities in a country slightly smaller than California are unlikely.

No wonder they need seven Gods to protect them. Or maybe it’s the concept of Shoganai (rough translation, it can’t be helped) that gets them through the day. Is this country in some kind of karmic debt? Are we that much luckier than the Japanese? Can you imagine how much Golden Staters would have to complain about if they had half of these problems?

Typhoon LAN is expected to make landfall Sunday,     the day of their national election.

There is so much unfamiliarity here that it’s best not to try to understand it and just embrace the foreignness. I like being on the edge of the universe, it’s a little unsettling and exciting. And being here helps me see how lucky I am.
God Bless California.

Tokyo Japan October 20th, 2017

February 2018 Update: We have had our share of disaster here with the Thomas fire and resulting mudflow that hit on January 9th. Montecito is severely injured but people have a bit of a Shogunai attitude, recognizing that life is more important than property. And having a positive attitude helps tremendously in the process of healing and rebuilding.