We have planned our trip up to Avignon, leaving the last two weeks without direction. After some deliberation between St. Remy or Les Baux en Provence, we decided to take the high road to Les Baux. We picked up the rental car and headed out of the city. The GPS must have a tourist setting that invites you on some beautiful back country roads (that are about as wide as a truck). Les Baux is a tiny wind blown hill town with a castle at the top. The population in the old town is 22, with 450 in the area.

We stayed at Le Mas d’ Aigret just in view of the castle.  The dining area of the hotel is partly carved in to the limestone mountain. The bar was once a stone vat for aging wine, red stained with the harvests of the past. Eric, the manager took us on a leisurely stroll through the property describing the history and amenities, including a “heated” outdoor pool. The area is infamous for the mistral winds that come from the north and last for days. Sorry there won’t be any swimming this week, no amount of heat can warm a mistral. Our room has a view of the countryside and the sea at Marseille, only partly obscured by the clouds.

Oh, and about the Troglodytes, they are giant cave dwellers that lived in the natural caverns surrounding the area a long time ago. Last night, after a day of rain I opened the terrace door and heard faraway thunder without the accompanying lighting. It was different  though, it had a cadence almost like huge footsteps. I closed the door.

There is a hidden treasure in this little village called Carrieres de Lumieres. It is a unique projected presentation in an underground quarry. With the risk of of exaggeration I will describe the fantabulous light and music show that we saw. Picture a stone quarry carved into the hillside. The roof of the space is 5-7 floors above your head and there are 25’ square limestone pillars left in place to support the cavern, creating galleries though out the space. There are high tech projectors splashing fresco like images all around you. Your perspective and the presentation changes as you move through the quarry.  It feels like you are in a painting that is evolving at warp speed. The walls, people, and the floor are covered with painted light. Every time you turn around the images change, fading in and out. All the while there is music that accompanies the projection, moving through you and bouncing off the walls, floor, and ceiling.

There were two different loops, one on Picasso and the Spanish Masters, another with a Beatles magical mystery tour/flower power feel. A PG rated lucy in the sky with diamonds experience, suitable for all demographics.

The presentation was mesmerizing and we and stayed for three loops, not able to draw ourselves away. Until the tour bus arrived and changed the vibe. We headed for the exit. When you walk out of the theatre of stone you    are back in a little sleepy hill town, the contrast palpable.

 

 

Fact check: The town of Les Baux draws 1.5 million tourists a year. The shows which have going on for 35 years and are different every year. No troglodytes have been seen for centuries.

 

 

 

 

 

Les Baux de Provence, April 11th 2018